Carnival of Flowers

Location: Toowoomba, Queensland

Accommodation: “Glen East”, North Toowoomba, Airbnb

Price Point: Average. On the lower end of average for the entire house. This is a 3 bedroom house, so if you were to travel with a group and split costs for all rooms this would be really affordable.

Favourite Thing: The flowers, of course! And having a girls weekend away with one of my oldest (time not age!) friends, Nicki.

Least Favourite Thing: Unable to use the fireplace in the Airbnb house

Day 1

This trip away was all about the Toowoomba Carnival of Flowers (TCOF) which we had both wanted to see and with the COVID-19 travel restrictions across the country it seemed like a good year to go. We had never been in previous years so wouldn’t miss the activities that had to be cancelled this year, such as the parade, private open gardens, etc.

We arrived a little before the 2pm check in time but everything was available so unloaded the luggage and had a quick look through the house. The house was an early 20th century cottage that had been written up as close to the city centre, Queens Park Botanical Gardens, cafes, etc. It had some lovely features but being surrounded by trees was a little dark inside. We later discovered that the fireplace / combustion heater shown in one of the Airbnb photos wasn’t in working order / allowed to be used due to its age and issues with insurance. Whaaaah! I had been looking forward to cooler nights and sitting by fire with some wine and cheese so was pretty disappointed. But otherwise, the house was lovely and comfortable, although we thought it was strange that the beds didn’t have a top sheet. I’d come across this in Europe but never in Queensland where nights can be warm and too hot for just a doona. Finally, on the 3rd night, I worked out to take the doona out of its cover and use the cover as a sheet. I wish I had have thought about that very easy solution on the 1st night and before I started having weird-arse dreams as a result of being over-heated….. Anyway, moving on.

We ducked out for some lunch at a cafe, Burrow, less than 2 blocks away that had been listed in the Toowoomba Carnival of Flowers #trEATS (particpating cafes, restaurants, around the Toowoomba region) and then went for a wander to familiarise ourselves with the area. After a stroll and some shopping we found Queens Park and took a few photos promising to return the next day for a longer look. On doing the loop back to the accommodation we realised just how close we were to Queens Park - perfect!!!

We decided to have a quiet night in to plan the next few days so popped in to Wendland Fine Foods (recommended by a friend and also only a short distance from the house) to purchase cheese, crackers, pate, and dinner for the night. It was all delicious! (The wine, bought from home, had been already in the fridge chilling. 😜)

The Airbnb

Burrow Cafe

Day 2

We started the day with breakfast, again at Burrow, it was so close and on the way to Queens Park. Today was a big walking day within Toowoomba and we managed to rack up over 20,000 steps.

Queens Park is spread across 25 hectares and includes formal floral displays (for the Carnival), play grounds, lawns, and on off-leash dog park. The floral displays, and the night garden, were kept to one area of the park, the closest corner to our accommodation. I was in heaven with the variety of flowers, all bright and beautiful and pretty, and took so many photos! It was great to see the bees enjoying the flowers too! If we didn’t have so much to cover over the next few days it would have been a perfect place to take a picnic, relax and take in the flowers. I think my favourites were the ranunculus but I loved them all.

The next garden was Laurel Bank Park but we took a round-about way to see if we could find some laneway street art. The TCOF offered a discovery walking tour, scheduled for late afternoon, where you would learn about the art , artists and architecture, but with limited time we decided to see what we could find on our own. I’m not sure that we saw the best of it, and certainly not all of it, but we managed to find quite a few.

While I preferred Queens Park (I think I just loved the varieties of flowers there), Nicki preferred Laurel Bank Park as the gardens were a little less formal. As well as the flower beds, Laurel Bank Park included a herb garden section, water displays with water lilies (nymphaea), themed gardens and some fun topiaries. I must admit I loved the old ‘county garden’ gate and wished I had the property to be able to have my own little country garden. Both gardens were fantastic and I’d go again another year.

Lunch was at Urban Grounds. Another #trEATS and located right across the road from Laurel Bank Park.

After a big day of walking we booked dinner at Toowoomba Thai (just down the street from the house and lucky we did as it was very popular!), freshened up and walked back down to Queens Park for the Night Garden. The ferris wheel had its light display going, there were light art pieces and lanterns hanging from trees. Lovely. But then we spotted the flower crowns complete with lights on some young girls wandering the park. Yes, we might be 40-something, but we wanted one! And we got one!

With our flower crowns lighting the way, we walked to the Thai restaurant for dinner. On seeing the full restaurant and being away from the fairytale gardens and atmosphere, we took our crowns off before entering. But not before being spotted and provoking a funny comment from a patron within. Oh well, it’s good to be young at heart right?

(I have included a couple of photos below, but the flowers were so beautiful I also post a load on the FB page.)

Day 3

After breakfast at Wendland Find Foods, we drove to the University of Southern Queensland’s Japanese Garden - Ju Raku En. The site is 3 hectares and is a traditionally designed Japanese stroll garden. The stroll takes you through maze like stone paths with head-high hedges, over traditional red, arched Japanese bridges (moon bridges) where you can watch the ducks glide and spot turtles stretching their head and necks from the water, stone hopping through streams and past waterfalls. Did you know the colour red in Japanese culture represents wisdom, transformation and all that is sacred? And Ju Raku En is roughly translated to mean ‘to enjoy peace and longevity in a public place’. Although the garden had a lot of visitors that day Nicki did say she felt the garden to be very peaceful.

Having taken my fair share of flower and duck photos, we took a drive a little drive through Highfields and on to Cabarlah to the Farmers Arms pub for lunch. I found this pub on a ‘to do’ list of the 8 best country pubs near Brisbane. I’m pretty sure I could spend my retirement making my way through lists of things to do and see, so why not cross one off the list while we were in the vicinity. The Farmers Arms pub is one of the oldest pubs in Queensland having been established in 1863. The bar had 2 service areas, 1 taking orders from the inside and restaurant area and the other from the semi enclosed outdoor area, complete with pool table and barrel tables. I could just imagine a Friday night at the pub with the locals, fruit pickers and tourists outside having a laugh and getting rowdy! The food was pretty good too - hello veggie burger and chips.

When planning out the day, Nicki had spotted Peacehaven Park which was also on the way to our last destination for the day. Peacehaven Park botanical garden is mostly made up of natives and provides picnic and BBQ facilities, kids playgrounds and has a lot of mosaic art. The park land (4.7 hectares) was donated by a local dairy farmer, Stan Kuhl, and the garden designed from his wish to promote global peace. How beautiful is that!

The last stop of the day was Rosalie House Vineyard and Cellar Door Restaurant in the Lilyvale Valley, Meringandan. I usually like to spend some time wandering around the vines and herb gardens but the wind had picked up considerably by this time so I only ducked out for a quick wander after we ordered some drinks and a cheese platter (it was huge!!!!). Rosalie House had some outdoor tables and umbrellas situated on the lawn in front of the vines which would be delightful on a warm, spring breeze day.

USQ Japanese Garden - Ju Raku En

A sweet Australian native and bee at Peacehaven Park

Cheese platter at Rosalie House Vineyard and Cellar Door Reataurant

Day 4

The last morning before we head back home was a simple visit to the Toowoomba Farmers market. Also conveniently located very close to the Airbnb. I think I did a pretty good job of picking the accommodation, even if I do say so myself. 😂

We woke to find the wind was just as gusty as the afternoon before and it was a chilly day (10.4 degrees, feels like 1.6! ❄️) so we layered up and headed out complaining (that would be me) about the wind. Coffee on arrival and wandering the market stalls started. Not far in Nicki spotted a jerky stall so I waited and looked around at the adjacent stalls while she bought some for her husband. You know when you see someone, and you think “I know that person”. And I know that I should know who that person is because I feel like I’ve seen them so many times. Could it be someone I’ve met at the Darling Downs ambulance office? Nope, can’t be. That beard is way too long and beards are no good for the PPE masks. Staring, staring, staring. I know him and it’s driving me crazy. I must have been staring at this poor bloke for 10 minutes until finally a young boy comes up (bless him) and says “Are you Tarzan from Survivor?”. Of course it is! I didn’t even need to hear the answer to know that it exactly who it was. How funny to think that I knew him when all I’d done is watch him on TV.

Now that I was out of my misery and Nicki had made her purchase we completed the rounds and bought some avo on sourdough at one of the stalls before we bought the heavy stuff. All of the fruit, herbs and vegetables looked so fresh and healthy! I really need to get off my butt on weekends and find my own local farmers markets.

Shopping done, it was time to head home and back to reality. I loved the gardens and driving through the countryside (or chauffeured - thanks Nicki) and spotted so many shacks and sheds I’d love to photograph. There’s definitely more run down shacks to see, country pubs to visit and quaint towns to explore out this way.

Tarzan (on the left)

Last breakfast - warming up in the sun

Montville

Location: Montville, Sunshine Coast Hinterland, Queensland

Accommodation: Spicers Clovelly Estate, 2 nights

Price Point: Take out a loan. Keeping in mind that the accommodation was booked as a package and included breakfast each morning and one dinner at The Long Apron restaurant. (If you opted for just the bed and breakfast it was slip back to the ‘Don’t ask’ category.

Favourite Thing: Sitting on the lawn terrace with a wine, enjoying the gardens, peace and quiet.

Least Favourite Thing: The Collet Champagne

Day 1

I’ve always enjoyed a day trip to Montville. The beautiful views of the hinterland hills, and on a clear day views out to the Sunshine Coast, the main street lined with restaurants and shops begging to empty my wallet and, of course, the perfect excuse to buy some chocolate, fudge and honeycomb.

It was a special occasion (a birthday) so reason enough to try another Spicers Retreat. Clovelly Estate is French inspired and the rooms met expectations for the cost with luxurious furnishings and bathroom including a freestanding limestone bath looking out to the bush and heated tile floors and towel rack.

We had seen a vineyard on the drive up to Montville so quickly unloaded the luggage and headed back out to The Barrel at Clouds Vineyard for a cheese platter and wine tasting. It was lovely enjoying some wine in the mid afternoon sun but I wasn’t inspired by the wine enough to buy a bottle to take back to the room.

By the time we got back to Spicers there was still a couple of hours until dinner, so decided to have a drink on the room’s private deck and enjoy the bush setting and tranquility. Having not bought a wine bottle back from the vineyard and feeling like some bubbles I unwrapped the 375ml bottle of champagne from the bar fridge. Rule #1 - always check bar fridge prices first! But of course I didn’t, and the cork was all but popped when I picked up the price list up. $75!!! Holy smokes! But by then it was too late so what could I do but sit back and enjoy every cent of it? I’m the first to admit I’m no sommelier, I just enjoy a good drop, but I had never tasted anything like this. It seemed to taste like very overripe fruit and I just couldn’t drink it! Not even a glass! Ok so that was my disaster to worry about, but later. Time to move up to the lawn terrace, order a more reasonably priced rose and enjoy the sun going down and the fairly lights coming on in the trees. So nice, so relaxing.

(I will add that we spoke to the Spicers staff about the champagne and they very kindly took it off my bill. Thank you!)

Dinner was booked for 6.30pm (yes, I’m a granny who likes early nights and early mornings) at Misty’s Restaurant in the main street of Montville. For the most part I prefer to eat Vegan/Vegetarian but the only vegetarian main available was mushroom (yuk) risotto so I had a vegetarian tapas entree and the confit dug leg with sweet potato puree. The food was very nice and the table was situated in the courtyard filled with lots of plants and fairy lights so I’d quite happily go back again.

Wine tasting. The Barrel at Clouds Vineyard

The ‘would be’ very expensive champagne

Day 2

A quick wander around the Spicers grounds before breakfast found a few very short walking paths, one of which led to a hidden BBQ area with a big deck, deck chairs, lamps, blankets, etc. that overlooked the Baroon Pocket Dam. It would be a great area for a late afternoon lunch for a group of friends. There was also a run down old shack (I love an old shack), precariously balanced on the side of the mountain which would have great views if you were game to wander in (no thank you) and which I’d like to discover the story behind.

After breakfast, we headed off to find one of the Kondalilla National Park entrances that would lead to Baxters Falls. The walk was 8.5km in total, taking 2 hours 20 minutes, but we did wander further past Baxter Creek and Falls than needed. The walk to the falls was pretty with lots of ferns and a few wildflowers but no mountain lookouts on the way. The walk down is easy, but a moderate return with a steady zig-zag incline all the way back up. It was quite a sweaty walk for the first month of Spring too! I was happy that there was some water at the falls despite it having been so dry.

A secret seat amongst the Spicers Clovelly gardens

The old shack

Baron Pocket Dam

Baxter’s Falls

Wild Flowers

Playing with light

Walk done and freshened up, it was time to head out to lunch, booked at The Edge in the main street of Montville. I’d eaten there on previous visits and knew it had one of the best views of the Hinterland. I ordered the Middle Eastern bowl , after a bruschetta entree, which was soooo good and which went very nicely with a rose or two.

My belly full, shopping was next. I haven’t visited Montville in a while so was pleased the Inside India shop was still there. I don’t think I’ve ever walked into that shop without walking out with something and today was no exception. A few months supply of incense, a couple of new incense holders and a gorgeous little stool (1/2 price - yes!) with a mandala carved into the seat to bring home to the yoga room. Chocolate, fudge and honeycomb too, of course. As if I wasn’t eating enough already these couple of days!

There was one last stop before heading back to Spicers for a rest - Flame Hill vineyard. Again the wines were nice but no bottles bought. The restaurant and terrace at Flame Hill has lovely, green views overlooking the vines and Hinterland for anyone that wanted to stay a while.

Late afternoon, we headed back up to the Spicers lawn terrace for a refreshing Aperol Spritz and a spot of croquet. (I could get use to this!) Being a classy kind of gal, I started using the mallet in a golf putter fashion before remembering it’s a between the legs swing. I’m sure the Spicers staff got a giggle out of watching that. 🙄

The Long Apron is the highly awarded restaurant at Spicers Clovelly Estate. Dinner was a choice between a 5 course degustation or a 3 course dinner. Not being a huge eater, I went with the 3 course menu and the restaurant allowed us to pick and choose between the dishes offered on both 3 and 5 course menu allowing more choice. I went with the goats cheese with onion jam entree, marinated tempeh main and wattleseed creme brulee with rhubarb compote for dessert.

Yum, yum, yum! And rolled back down to the room, ready for a big sleep and return home in the morning to give my stomach and liver a break….

Middle Eastern bowl

The entrance to Flame Hill vineyard

O'Reilly's Rainforest Retreat

O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat is located in the World Heritage listed Lamington National Park with the first guesthouse being built in 1925, the first paying customer in 1926 and more builds and refurbishments along the way. This paying customer booked three nights in a Mountain View room, said to boast the best views in the retreat, with a plan for some hiking and R&R.

Day 1

The road leading to the retreat is long and winding with a few blind corners and one lane sections, so while some of the views were lovely on the way up I wasn’t game to have too much of a look, even if i wasn’t the driver! The room had all of the basics you would expect; shower, bed, bar fridge, hot water jug, etc. but no TV. That’s ok with me but beware if you are one of those that needs to fall asleep to TV or one that can’t live without. it. The rooms didn’t seem to have any sound-proofing so you can hear neighbours coming to and from, rolling luggage in and walking around. And if you’re trying to have an afternoon nap while the cleaners are next door then you can forget it! I think I might have been expecting a bit more of a fluffy robes feel with it being a ‘retreat’ but the balcony did have unobstructed views of the beautiful sunsets each night.

We decided to head out for a very short, late afternoon walk, maybe only 3km and accessible straight from the room, to fill in time until sunset and dinner. The first stop was Mick’s Tower - a climb to the top (18m) took you to the rainforest canopy. Then onto the Wishing Tree by which you need to cross a suspension bridge. The bridge isn’t high so should be fine even for those with a fear of heights.

Mick’s Tower

Up I go

Rocking the suspension bridge & blurring the photo. Because I’m 5.

Day 2

I woke early on the Saturday to a foggy morning, which I love! I’m not sure there’s much better than low hanging cloud or fog on the mountains.

Foggy morning view from the balcony

I had pre-arranged for seats on the shuttle bus to transport us to Binna Burra to do the 21.4km Border Track walk. As part of the accommodation package the shuttle bus and packed lunch for the day was included. The Border Track connects the Binna Burra and Green Mountains (where O’Reilly’s is located) section of Lamington National Park and is a self-guided walk. The track is well marked and easy to follow and I would have felt quite comfortable doing the walk solo. I took a photo of the information board at Binna Burra which shows the mountains and lookouts I should pass on the walk to be comfortable I was on the right path and to keep track of my progress. There were 5 main landmarks i was on the lookout for.

Leading up to this weekend i had heard plenty of stories about the leeches and despite it being our drier season I had plenty of daymares leading up to the walk and had doused my shoes and legs in Bushman’s insect repellent. I’m pleased to report I had no run-ins with either leeches or ticks and i very quickly forgot all about them.

While the rainforest is lovely, and so nice to listen to the birds whipping away, some lengths of the walk are a little long and monotonous between lookouts. The last 5-7km were a challenge to get through for my poor feet. I think i can say goodbye to my friend, pinky toenail, yet again! Why is it that once you lose a nail it doesn’t seem to take much to lose it again? (Are there any experienced hikers that have some handy hints to provide more support to foot bones and to avoid the painful toenails???)

I would have to say my favourite lookout on the walk was Merino lookout. It is a slight detour from the Border Track and the path was pretty overgrown so it mustn’t be used much. Great views at 1128 meters but beware that it has no guard rails and is a sheer drop from the edge! There would be no coming back. A veer to the right just before the lookout has a nice shaded clearing where it’s a bit safer to sit and have a spot of lunch. (I’ll put a separate video of the Merino Lookout on the FB page but it still doesn’t do the views and drop off justice.)

As with a few hikes i’ve done, the sight of home base was a welcome relief to be able to take my shoes off, have a celebratory wine (or two) and have a nice warm shower!

Merino Lookout

Day 3

Explored some of the shorter walks today, linking them together to make it just over a 10km trip. Today was more up my alley with some fun and exploring and some beautiful views.

First up was the Tree Top walk which has a total of nine suspension bridges up to 16 meters above the ground and a fig tree lookout 30 meters up. I’m not generally afraid of heights and climbed up the 30 meters no problem. But. It was a very windy day and the tiny deck 30 meters up in the fig tree was swaying in the wind and my knees got a little shaky!

On to Moran’s Falls which was an easy walk downhill to the lookout over to the 80 meter waterfall. We followed the path around to the back of the waterfall and went off track a little to explore along the rocks and water to the top of the falls. There is a proper / safe lookout beside the waterfall that provides great views although i think i noticed a little too late (after my exploring ‘off-track’) the warning sign of ‘unstable cliff’. Oops!

We then followed the O’Reilly’s private property road looking for Moonlight Crag. The path we took included both dirt road and unmarked bush track. A wrong turn was taken (for a short while and may I add that it looked as though others had too as there was some form of a track there) but eventually the lookout was found. We clearly took the ‘bush-track’ to get there as the lookout provided a 3 tier wooden platform, some lighting set up and also, as we discovered later, a 4 wheel drive road that led right to the lookout. So, I suspect O’Reilly’s must provide a sunset tour to here. (I really need to do my research before going to a place!) But the view was fantastic! Well worth the walk, but I had no idea that the worst was yet to come.

From there we decided to head back along the Red Road and at the fork in the road took the option left, as option right finished with the Wishing Tree track which we had done on day 1. Wrong! The first part was really lovely, along a creek, past a very old wooden shack (the Slaughter House - built in 1953. Creepy or no?), and then came the hill. Very steep, not at all forgiving and by this time my toenails were screaming again so I was not a happy camper…… We eventually made it back to home camp, and as it is with any tired and grumpy child I rewarded myself with a burger and chips on the balcony of the O’Reilly’s Mountain Cafe.

Top of Moran’s Falls

Taken from the lookout beside Moran’s Falls

Moonlight Crag Lookout

The Slaughter House

Sunday afternoon was meant to include a rewarding foot recovery treatment and massage at the Lost World Spa. But on trying to book in on the prior Monday I discovered that they were booked out until October. (Insert poor me face.) So instead, and after giving the toes a rest, a few cocktails at the O’Reilly’s bar was in order and then a red wine by the fire in the lounge. The lounge was my favourite room at the retreat and hardly anyone used it. It was like an old log cabin crossed with an old library. The fire was lit, surrounded by books, old photos and newpapers about the O’Reilly family history and the Stinson crash. If I go back again I will take some more time to look through it all.

Lamington Sunset

Open fire in the lounge = heaven.

Day 4 and check out day.

Just a very short walk today to Python Rock lookout on the way home. The walk is registered as 3.4km but if starting at O’Reilly’s it’s a little under 5km. This walk is super easy, nice and even the whole way. Perfect for a stretch of a couple of longer days. The view from Python Rock takes in Moran’s Falls to left and then over to Castle Crag which is another walk i’d like to check out another time.

And then it was time to buckle up and head back down the mountain.

Ciao Roma!

Being a tourist in Rome is exhausting! It's crazy here - everywhere you look is something from ancient Rome. So much to see, so many people, so many qeues. But, I have to admit, the Romans (and Italians in general) have taught me a few things about reducing my stress levels. And that surprised me! 

Road laws in Italy are suggestions only. A no parking sign? Park. A really no parking at any time sign? Park. Not enough room to park between the cars? Park - perpendicularly. Pedestrian crossing? No problem, park. Two lane road? Just go three abreast, make a 3rd lane. What has amazed me though, with the traffic in Rome particularly, is that you rarely hear a horn beeped, a word shouted, a fight breaking out. While the drivers seem to be oblivious to any kind of road rules, they are actually quite courteous and patient with each other. It seems to be anything goes, if there is a space in the road, go for it and no-one cares. While I'm not sure about the ignoring the road rules bit, we could certainly pick up a few pointers from the Italians in patience and forgiveness. Perhaps the road rage back home would be reduced. 

Typical example of street parking. Have a good look at all cars. Even the black one in the middle of the street is parked.

The train and car park facilities in Rome are few and far between. There is a law here (one of which they follow) that Roman ruins can not be moved but they can build around them. Each time they excavate to build a train line or car park they hit more Roman ruins and then have to try and find somewhere else. It is no wonder there are so many scooters, Fiat 500's and Smart cars in Italy.

Pedestrians are very similar. People in front of you stop in the middle of the footpath? Meh, just go around them. The footpath is blocked with a gazillion people? Don't stress, just walk on the road, the cars will go around you. Before we finished the tour in Rome and were left to our own devices the tour director gave us some advice. 'When looking to cross the road just step out nice and calmly. If you make eye contact with the driver and he sees fear in your eyes he will speed up. If you're part way across a road and a car comes? Just act nonchalant and continue along at your own pace. If the driver sees you speed or look scared, he will speed up.' In one case, a woman was crossing at the lights on the red man. Our taxi was actually getting impatient. The woman stopped in the middle of the road, lit a cigarette and continued on her merry way, slowly. The taxi driver didn't even beep her! So far, the advice on crossing streets in Italy seems to be working and I think I am getting the hang of it.

The other thing that I noticed in Italy was that while there were plenty of peddlars selling their wares, they did not hassle you. Once you say no thanks they leave you along and move on to the next person. Great!

We stayed three extra days in Rome in an apartment I found on airbnb. So nice not to be in a hotel! The apartment was in a great area (about 3 minute walk to the Spanish Steps) and was nice and spacious. The only down side was that it got noisy early but that's what you get in a Rome apartment.

The apartment building - see me in the window of the first floor. 

The apartment street - Via Vittoria

Sightseeing in Rome. If you like visiting history, ruins, eating, drinking and shopping then three days is not enough! I did a few of the big ones but there is still plenty more to see. I mentioned in a previous post that I purchased a Omni Rome and Vatican card. It was worth it as you can book in for fast tracking and skip lining up. Don't get me wrong, it still takes a while but it does beat the major ticket line. In the Vatican Museum (including Sistine Chapel) , St Peter's Basilica and Colosseum your bag goes through a security check similar to the airport. The Vatican Museum was by far the worst for crowds and just about took the amazement out of it.  

Pont Sant'Angelo - the bridge is lined with statues of angels

Castel Sant'Angelo

A ceiling in the Vatican Museum

Vatican Museum - Hall of Tapestries. Notice all the people!

St Peter's Basilica

St Peter's Basilica - going to confession???

The Colosseum

The Roman Forum

The Pantheon

The Spanish Steps

I did a lot, but not enough. Until next time. Arrivederci!

Pompeii

Everyone knows the story of Pompeii, right? Pompeii was an ancient Roman town, believed to be founded in the 7th or 6th century BC, located near Naples. The town was destroyed by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius at 1pm, 24th August of 79 AD, buried by the ash. They believe the time and date to be accurate as a surviving letter from a boy called 'Pliny' provided evidence. He saw the eruption from a distance and described in the letter the death of his uncle who tried to rescue citizens.

But, did you know, that Pompeii was only rediscovered in 1599? Fancy that, after all that time. There is also a modern town of Pompei existing nearby but it is spelt with one i (Pompei) rather than the two of the ancient town (Pompeii).

My trip to Pompeii was dampened by torrential rain but the tour went ahead regardless. My shoes are still drying out while I write this blog from Rome.

Gladiator Arena

The Rodeo Drive of Pompeii

The most amusing section of the ancient ruins was that of the 'red light' district. The archeologists could tell it was for prostitution as there were five bedrooms on the ground floor (not usual for a home).  All had stone beds and they believe a mattress would have been placed on top. And then there was the give away ancient 'art'. Never fear if you were a foreigner who didn't understand the language. Just point to the position you liked and away you go! Apparently, up until a few years ago, women weren't allowed in this section as it was too naughty. 

On the road towards the district, there was a stone carved in the shape of a penis which 'pointed' the way to the brothels. I couldn't get a photo of that - it was a bit crowded with other photographers.

Ancient art

We also saw a number of 'petrified' figures displayed, although the guide advised that the term petrified is incorrect. The bodies were not petrified, rather the ash and pumice formed around the bodies which later decayed. This left a type of mould of which was used to create the cast of the bodies.  

The large theatre

'Petrified' body

I'm sure there was a lot more to see in Pompeii but with the usual time restrictions of a tour and the pouring rain it was time to continue to Rome.

Positano

I made it to Positano! Despite the tour bus cancelling the day trip to Positano and Amalfi, I at least made it to Positano. The Amalfitana road has been legally closed due to fires on the coast resulting in the cliff face shrubs being burnt. This means that rock fall is more common as the brush and shrubs aren't there to keep it in place.  The tour bus won't drive the road due to legal liability which is understandable.

Determined not to miss out, I hired a private driver to take me and my folks to Positano for the morning. He was very good pointing out this and that, stopping for photographs along the road and waiting for 2 hours while we wandered the steep street. 

A portion of the Amalfi Coast drive

A quick photo stop. I'm nearly there!

There is only one road in and out of Positano (which is a one way street that goes in a loop) and basically no parking in the heart of the town so taxi's, drivers and residents have to park at the top of Positano and walk. I imagine the residents must be very fit. They have to walk up and down the street and use the thousands of steps to get to their homes. It's no wonder most Italian's buy their groceries daily and eat fresh. Can you imagine lugging a weeks worth of groceries around here? 

I finally made it to Positano and wandered down to the waterfront trying not to get distracted by the shops and street stalls. It seems to be that the streets are full of all kinds of shops (clothes, ceramics, art, jewellery, souvenirs, etc), then towards the bottom and along the waterfront are the caffe's and restaurants. I was very excited when I made it to the waterfront and saw the little boat for Da Adolfo restaurant as I had read a few articles about it. Da Adolfo is a secluded restaurant about 5-10 minutes from Positano and you get there by boat. Apparently you can lie out on the sun beds and then pop up to the restaurant when you get hungry. Unfortunately, I didn't have time to do this and I would have had to book the restaurant in advance anyway - next time.  

I'm here!

The Da Adolfo boat taking off for the restaurant

Time for a coffee break and some people watching before the walk back up - this time taking time to peruse the shops and lighten the purse. Check out the Delizio Limone (lemon delight cake) in the photo below - so good! I bought myself some ceramics on the way up, including a couple of espresso cups and saucers. I rarely drink caffeine at home but discovered I actually like the strong, little espresso coffees. I'll have to see if the Nespresso coffee machine at home does a decent espresso.

Cappuccino and Delizio Limone

Isola di Capri

It was a rough trip by boat from Sorrento to Isola di Capri, an island located in the Tyrrhenian Sea off the Sorrentine peninsula. I have never seen so many sick bags being handed out. Thankfully, none were for me. We arrived early on the island; we'd been warned that it would soon have a tsunami of people arrive. I would later find out they weren't lying. 

We reached the main town of Capri (called Capri) by funicular and received our walking tour, ending in the Giardini Augusto (gardens) for some gorgeous views. Did you see the zig-zag stones path in the feature photo (it looks like terraces)? That's actually a walk way to get down to a beach! Unfortunately it was closed due to falling cliff-face rocks.

I sampled a lemon granita during the walk - it was delicious and refreshing! Do yourself a favour and have one if you make it over this way.   

In Giardini Augusto

The monastery in Giardini Augusto

I was hoping to do a cruise around the island to see the coastline, cliffs and white grotto but was unable to due to the rough seas. Many will know the island of Capri for the famous blue grotto which you can also do by boat when the seas are calm. The guide recommended the white grotto as the blue grotto can be very difficult to get to (as in the inside of the cave - you have to time your entrance with the waves) and you usually only have a couple of minutes inside the grotto before they take you back out to bring the next group in. I didn't get to experience either, so I guess I will never know - at least until next visit.

In place of the cruise, I took a mini bus to Anacapri. The road up to Anacapri is serpent like and the drivers take it pretty fast. I'm sure they must do at least 20 trips up a day so I bet they could probably manoeuvre it their sleep. But, it's a hairy ride for the newbies. If you don't like heights, make sure you sit behind the driver so you don't have to look over the edge and down to the bottom and/or as the other minibuses come screaming down the mountain at you. 

At the top, for this tour, I had to choose between the chairlift to the top for 360 degree views or the Villa San Michele for 180 degree views. If you go to Capri on your own you could easily do both in a day. If you want to do the chairlift, be aware that it is a one person chairlift so again, if you don't like heights, you won't have someone with you to grab on to. I went to Villa San Michele as I love looking through places that are so different to my own. What a romantic and gorgeous place - and the views! The villa was built and owned by Axel Munthe, a Swedish-born physician, psychiatrist, philanthropist and animal advocate. I'm going to read his book 'The Story of San Michele' when I get home.

View from Villa San Michele

It was time to leave Anacapri & meet the group at the mini buses to head back down to Capri. Holy smokes! The tsunami of people had arrived while I was at the villa. Apparently a cruise ship had arrived. We eventually got the bus back to Capri and continued to the marina via open air taxi. They were a bit of fun.

A selfie in the open air taxi  

My 2nd favorite car - Piaggio Ape

The boat ride back to Sorrento was a lot smoother and no sick bags were required. The long day ended with dinner at a local restaurant called Lo Stuzzichino. Great food andentertainment run by a fun family. Even the owner got in on the fun and was dancing on the chairs.  

Dinner at Lo Stuzzichino

Matera

Matera is a city founded by the Romans in the 3rd century BC and is in the Provence of Basilicata. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was declared the Italian host of the European Capital of Culture for 2019. 

Between a documentary I had watched on Matera & the local guide today, I learned that the 'sassi' was a settlement carved into & out of the rock. Some parts of the sassi have streets built on top of dwellings. So today when we were walking through the sassi we were actually walking on the rooves of other dwellings.

The dwellings further to the top of the mountains where for the better off while the poorer lived towards the bottom. Even up to the 1950's there was no sewerage or electricity. As you know, gravity goes down, so when sewerage was thrown out the window to the street it would trickle down to the poorer areas.  

Because of this, Matera was considered the scandal of Italy & in the 1950's the government was forced to relocate the residents to the new town of Matera.  

Around the 1980's with the increase of tourism some of the dwellings have had electricity, plumbing, etc added with the rejuvenation of the sassi and turned into pubs, restaurants and b&b. What was once a scandal has now turned into the place to visit & even stay! 

In the 50's there could be 3 levels in a dwelling. Top level for living, next for the animals/livestock (inside the dwelling!) and the lower to keep the wine produce.  

Inside decked out to reflect dwelling of the 50's.  

Matera

It's amazing to think of the loooong history of this place. There's a lot more to it. Look it up if you have some time. I would love to have a look inside a renovated b&b 'cave'. 

Maybe I'll stay in a cave next time...... 

Alberobello & Ostuni

Wow, wow, wow! What an amazing day. Before I continue, I must confess that I have just returned from a Masseria dinner. Masseria in Italian means farm, however, many of them have morphed into restaurants using home grown farm produce. Our masseria tonight included a tonne of fantastic food, unlimited wine (hello vini rossi) and completed with limoncello. I apologise now if I rant on or don't make any sense but I am both in a happy space and in a food coma.

First stop, Alberobello. I have wanted to see Alberobello for a while now so was very excited for what the day was to bring. Alberobello (UNESCO World Heritage) is a little town and commune famous for its trulli buildings. So unique and beautiful! I had a great time wandering through Alberobello and must have taken 1,000 photos. We got to go inside a trullo (trulli is plural for trullo) still used as a home. I sat down next to the matriach of the trullo who was shelling some beans. I asked her if they were fava beans and she was quite excited that I knew what they were. "Brava" she exclaimed. Well, I was a little bit proud of myself then.

Alberobello is broken into two sections, the first being where the approx. 11,000 inhabitants live and the second where you will find the caffe bars, restaurants, souvenir shops, etc. I succumbed to buying two bottles of liqueur in trulli shaped glass bottles. I can't wait to get them home to drink - almond and caffe flavour.

Alberobello church

Alberobello

Mama and her fava beans

Before leaving Alberobello, we visited a vintner for a tasting of Puglia's wines. It was very good and I thought about buying a bottle or two for when I'm chilling in the Rome apartment, but then I thought better of having to lug it about for the next few days.

The afternoon saw us off to Ostuni, a city of about 32,000 and about 8km from the coast. I had heard that you would think you were in Greece if you didn't know better. Walking to Ostuni and into the main piazza I couldn't see what they were referring to. But then, after lunch, we walked off the main street and I took another 1,000 (yes, that's an exaggeration) photos. I even bought a new pair of leather sandals for the bargain price of 24 Euro. (My suitcase weight limit is suddenly looking dangerous after today.)     

Piazza Liberta in Ostuni, for lunch

I just like this.

Ostuni

Ostuni

Viva Italia

Viva Italia and La Dolce Vita, the sweet life. I'm hoping this is how I'll feel for the next week or so. I had my first day in Roma, Italia today and spent most of it walking a small section of her streets.

Tonight is the start of a new tour but I have 3 extra nights tacked on in Rome at the end. I'll be trying out an airbnb apartment for the first time. And, I have purchased a 3 day Omni Vatican and Rome pass which will get me 'skip the line' entry into the Vatican museum, St Peter's Basilica, Colosseum, hop on hop off bus, etc. so I really only had a peek of Rome from the outside today. 

I had long walk through the Villa Borghese gardens, through to the Piazza del Popolo, over Fiume Tevere (Tiber River), Piazza Navona then stopped for a delicious lunch of pizza, salad & wine in a little restaurant around the corner from the Pantheon. 

Villa Borghese gardens

Twin churches of Santa Maria del Miracoli & Santa Maria di Montesanto in the Piazza del Popolo

Heading back to the hotel, I was a little peeved to realize that the Fontana di Trevi was undergoing a massive restoration. I know what you're saying: think yourself lucky your in Rome at all! You're right, but come on, when you think of Rome you think of the Trevi fountain! You want to see it in all of its glory, right? 

Did you know that Rome has over 2,000 fountains? And, they also have more Egyptian obelesques than Egypt! Crazy.

Fontana di Trevi under restoration

After having dinner and meeting the tour group we took a short bus ride around Rome to see some of the sights illuminated at night. The fountains, Colosseum, Basilicas, etc, etc. look beautiful lit up at night. We only got to stop the bus for a photo opportunity outside of St Peter's Basilica so I'll try and do a night walk on my return to take some more night time happy snaps.

P.S. You know you're in Italy when your room looks like this

Buona notte! 

Dovidenja Croatia

Goodbye Croatia. Just a quick post today, but a few photos, as I am leaving Croatia and heading for a new adventure in Italy. It seems like months ago since I first arrived in Zagreb and while I remember places and sights it seems ridiculous to me that I'm forgetting where I was just a couple of days ago. Thank goodness for photos and this post to remind me. I guess that's the sign of a good but jam-packed holiday.

Here are the things I have loved about Croatia: Stone houses with old shutters and doors, cypress trees, water so clear it teases you to jump right in fully clothed, never getting tiring of looking at the colours of the water (aqua, turquoise, emerald green, sea green, sapphire blue, deep blue), pebble beaches, swimmings off the rocks, the history and architecture, wine with lunch and dinner, cheese and proscuitto, gorgeous seaside towns with boats bobbing in the water. And of course cats - one of the guides said that there are no stray cats in Croatia and the Croat people don't own the cats, the cats own them.

What I needed for time for: getting lost, taking more photos, taking more walks (refer getting lost), swimming and chilling by the sea.

St Mark's Church, Zagreb

Pula Amphitheatre

Stone steps to the green sea - Rovinj

Rovinj - Old Doors

Blue eyes, found along the Lungomare, Opatija

Plitvice Lakes - needed more time here for walking and photos

Amazing water colour and clarity, Brac

Colours of the water, Brac

Pebble beaches, Brac

Old shutters

Pebble beaches, Brac

Boats, Sumartin, Brac

Stone buildings, old shutters

Boats, Cavtat

Swimming of the rocks, Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik, or King's Landing to Game of Thrones fans, is a huge tourist destination and joined the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites in 1979. To me, Dubrovnik is home of the red tiled roof, polished stone pavement and the wall. And, it's pretty amazing.

I've spent a couple of days in Dubrovnik but finally walked along the wall today - what a view! It cost 100 kuna (around $20) The wall is a little under 2 km but by the time I took in the views, paused for photo opportunities and stopped for a fresh juice, it took around an hour or so to complete. I took so many photos I'll have to be ruthless in the cull! (I won't bore you with too many here but will add more to the Captured (gallery) page once I'm back home in Australia.)  

Old Town Dubrovnik is just as impressive as the views from the wall. The clock tower is used as a marker to get your bearings once inside as it can be a bit of a labyrinth.  It now houses a tonne of restaurants, shops, museums and galleries. If you visit, make sure to wear good walking shoes as the polished stone pavers are very slippery.

Dubrovnik Old Town taken from the Wall

St John Fortress (Mulo Tower) on old city port 

So, Game of Thrones in Dubrovnik.  There have been a number of scenes filmed here and I can actually see the resemblance in some of the photos I took. Some of you may need a tad more imagination.... so here is an article I found on the net from last year that may help: http://brandsandfilms.com/2014/09/my-own-private-game-of-thrones-tour-in-dubrovnik/

King's Landing

St. Dominic Street

Walk of Shame steps from Series 5

Cashing in - Game of Thrones shop

After a rest at the hotel, I used public transport for the first time in Croatia to go back to Old Town for dinner. There are restaurants throughout Old Town but also a street nicknamed restaurant street. There were plenty of touters vying for business. Dubrovnik at night is definitely worth a visit. The lights give it a whole other look and it's also much cooler than in the heat of the day so you can take your time strolling along the placa and backstreets.

Pile Gate

Placa - main street of Dubrovnik

Cavtat

Fifteen kilometers from Dubrovnik you will find Cavtat, the oldest town in the Balkan Peninsula and the place where the rich and famous come to moor their yachts in the bay. The population is only 2144 and the town is filled with boats, restaurants, shops and gorgeous nooks for swimming.

I had the morning to walk the Cavtat promontory and visit the cemetery and Racic Mausoleum which is on the highest point of the town. Even in death there is a beautiful view. The Racic Mausoleum was designed and built by Ivan Mestrovic, a famous Croatian sculptor. It was commissioned by the wife of a local shipping owner, Mare Racic, whose entire family died in the Spanish flu pandemic after World War I - between 1918 and 1919. Cavtat has beautiful views where you could easily sit for hours enjoying lunch and a good wine. 

Cavtat harbour

Cavtat restaurants with great views of the harbour

Cavtat cemetery with a view

Racic Mausoleum

The afternoon was my own to do as I wished. I used my time wisely and lolled about taking a swim in the Adriatic Sea in front of the hotel. The water was a perfect 22 degrees, so refreshing, and the sea floor was rocky and mossy. This is so different to our beautiful Australian beaches but one advantage is you don't come home with sand in your bikini, hair, face, etc. After the swim I air dried on the sun bed listening to the sea lap at the rocks and to unfamiliar languages of fellow sun-bakers. So cool! Such a simple thing but one I'll remember and definitely a highlight experience. 

My Adriatic Sea swimming pool

The other hotel swimming pool

Tonight is officially the last night of the Croatia tour so we'll be having a farewell celebration dinner. I have an extra night in Dubrovnik though so will be visiting Dubrovnik Old town tomorrow to walk the wall and discover it's little side streets. I can't wait.

Montenegro

Montenegro is a country, or more accurately a sovereign state, that I didn't expect to visit or know too much about. For starters, it has a approximately 630,000 inhabitants, is about the same size as Connecticut and is bordered by Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia and Albania. The capital of Montenegro is Podgorica (once know as Titograd during the existence of Yugoslavia) and she has a long history of changing hands (i.e. Byzantines, the Venetians, Yugoslavia, etc) and being independent .

The location over the border was a photo stop for the two islands in the Bay of Kotor. Our Lady of the Rocks which is a man-made island and home to a church built in 1452, and the island of Saint George which has the 12th century Saint George Benedictine monastery. I love the look of the island of Saint George with its cypress trees and stone building. 

Island of Saint George (left) and Our Lady of the Rocks

Next was Kotor, a coastal town of Montenegro located on the Bay of Kotor which some say is the southern-most fiord in Europe. Kotor is another lovely town to wander around and it feels like it was built right into the Orjen and Lovcen mountains. You can see from the photos below how the mountains seem to hug the town. Kotor has become better known due to visits from Princess Caroline and Grace Kelly. I would have loved to have walked the city walls but as this was just a day trip from Dubrovnik time did not permit. I'll just have to come back (she laughs) when I have more time to walk the 4.5 km track of 1200-1400 steps.

St. Triphon's Cathedral, 1166

Town Clock Tower, 1602

After Kotor, we took to the road via Mount Lovcen and took an old winding road to the top which included a long section called the Serpentine's. Called the Serpentine's, it snakes it's way up the mountain with 25 hairpin turns. The views along the way were pretty spectacular but it was a nerve-wracking ride for most of it. Although a two-way road, there was usually only room for one (particularly when you're in a bus) and one or the other would need to pull over (or reverse and pull over) to let the other pass. The drop over the edge was a bit hard to deal with at times but the views towards the top, 840 m above sea level, were worth it though (I think).  

The view I chose when the drop over the Serpentine's got too much.

I'm alive, on firm ground and with a great view of the Bay of Kotor

Further up the mountain we came to the village of Njeguši, about 1,000 m above sea level. Apparently a few Montenegrins have summer homes up here and there are even little huts for hikers to rent. I think I'd like to do some hiking around here - the views are amazing and the huts are so cute!

Hikers huts to the left of the pink wall

Views of Njeguši

On the way back down, the local guide pointed out a number of 'hot spots' such as Sveti Stefan where Ivan Djokovic got married, the Hotel Splendid Spa Resort on the Budva Riviera where Casino Royal (James Bond) was filmed and Jas Beach voted #1 Best European Beach by Lonely Planet. Again, no time to validate the Lonely Planet claims. Oh well, I'll just have to come back another day.

Jas Beach (Lonely Planets #1 Best European Beach)

Last Stop in Croatia

Dubrovnik - my last stop in Croatia and I have 4 lovely nights here. (Sigh of relief.) I might even unpack and get some washing done.

If people have heard of one place in Croatia it will be Dubrovnik. It's one of the most prominent tourist destinations in the Mediterranean but only has a population of about 42-43,000 people. I believe only 1,000 of those still live in the Old Town. Dubrovnik joined the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites in 1979. I've been told that when the many cruise ships arrive that the population can triple and quadruple.  

On the way to Dubrovnik, we stopped to see the Wall of Ston, known as the European wall of China. The Walls of Ston, originally around 7 km long, were built as defensive walls to protect the city of Ston and its salt pans.     

The Walls of Ston

Although I spent a few hours in Old Town this afternoon, I'll save most of the pictures until a later post when I can have a really good walk around, including walking the wall. Today I had an introduction and orientation of Dubrovnik from a local guide so I hope to go back on my own time to get into all the nooks and crannies of the Old Town. In addition to Diocletian's Palace in Split, Dubrovnik was also used to film scenes in Game of Thrones. I'll see what I can find out and photograph some areas for a later post too. 

There were a lot of tourists there today (including me of course), with the rare occurrence of a photo opportunity with no people. The guide mentioned that Thursday is when most cruise ships arrive (around 6-7) so I'll steer clear of Old Town on that day.

Old Town, Dubrovnik

Lovely Old Town side streets

Restaurants and shops in most of the side streets

The water in the fountains is drinkable

For a different view of Dubrovnik I went on a sunset dinner cruise. Such a relaxing way to end the day after the manic of walking around old town with the crowds. The old wooden boat cruised around the harbours so that I could see how the other half live. All the houses built into the coastal rock have stairs to the sea and at the bottom, a little ladder going straight into the Adriatic, just like they have at the local pool. Can you imagine just popping out your back door and down the steps to take a dip in the Adriatic whenever you wanted? Amazing!

The boat docked at Old Town Dubrovnik so we walked the paved Old Town streets at night. The air was cool compared to the heat of the sun earlier in the day and there were hardly any people.  The town had a different look with less people and all the lights on - beautiful. I'll definitely be back another night.

The last of the fading light

Sunset

Korcula

Korcula claims to be the birth place of Marco Polo.  It's also the 6th largest island of Croatia and a huge holiday spot in the Summer. Luckily for me (I don't like crowds), it's a few weeks into off season so the majority of tourists have gone. The days are warm but the bura wind is still hanging around making it a bit fresh when the sun is behind the clouds.

Today was a great day of leisure and I have enjoyed walking the streets of the island. This morning we had a local guide walk us through Old Town and show us the old ruined home of Marco Polo, St Mark's Cathedral, the Bishop's Palace and explained how the Old Town of Korcula had very clever city planning way back when it was built in the late 15th century. There is one straight main street that has curved side streets coming off it (think of a fish bone). The straight street catches the sun while the side streets are curved to help slow the strong bura winds.  

The steps are the entrance to Old Town, Korcula

An example of the curved side streets

Marco Polo's old home

Dad and I payed 20 kuna each (around $4) and climbed to the top of the bell tower to get the view of the town. The spiral stair case to the top was so narrow and windy that I had to be careful not to scrape my bag on the walls going up. It was just as squeezy when we got to the top. We were very busy taking photos so weren't keeping an eye of the time. When it struck midday we were right next to the bells and, needless to say, it scared the bejeezus out of us. 

We then stopped for a relaxing lunch, sitting by the old town wall and looking over the water.  Prosciutto, cheese, bread, salad and wine.  Perfect.

Selfie from St Mark's Cathedral bell tower.

And then it struck 12!

To end the day, and to walk off the lunch, we left the hotel for a walk around the outskirts of Korcula town.  It took about 80 minutes.  See the feature photo looking down to Old Town Korcula.

Taken from the front of Hotel Siburna

Taken just outside the Old Town wall.  See the round tower on the right.

On the Road Again

'On the road again, goin' places that I've never been, seein' things that I may never see again.' Just like Willie Nelson, I had a long day of travelling.  After a journey of bus - ferry - bus - ferry - bus, I finally arrived in Korcula (pronounced Korchula), but I had some stops for fun, food and alcohol along the way.

The first leg was by bus from Bol to Sumartin in Brac to catch a ferry to Makarska on mainland Croatia. Arriving in Sumartin, the tour director let us know that we had an hour to fill in but that there nothing much here.  Nothing much here but charm and 'boat' loads of it! I have a love of  run-down houses, doors, windows and gates so I often take photos of these. I'm sure a lot of people think I'm a bit nuts. It seems I am getting an old boat fixation too.

Fishing boat at Sumartin

Sumartin Harbour

The green door

Sumartin shutters

Finally the ferry arrived in Makarska (back on Mainland Croatia) and I boarded the bus to head off for the next ferry. It was a long drive so we pulled over for a pit stop and, as the tour director puts it, a 'flourishing'.  To our very pleasant surprise, he broke out some wine & cheese.  I think I like this flourishing business! 

To get to our Makarska ferry, we had to go through Bosnia. Living in a country as vast as Australia which shares no country borders, it feels so strange to me to be going through different countries so quickly and easily without hopping on a plane. In Neum, Bosnia, I stopped for lunch and tried out the national dish of cevapici which is a grilled, skinless sausage.  This one was made from veal. Just so you know I'm not too much of a porky, this platter was shared between three. Strange national dish if you ask me but tasted pretty good.   

Getting my flourishing on with wine in a paper cup.

Cevapcici

The next Croatian regions we drove through are known for their orange groves and vineyards so it was only appropriate that the last stop before the ferry was for some liqueur and wine tasting. The liqueurs had some unusual flavours - walnut, pomegranate, rose and carob in additional to the more familiar strawberry and cherry (see feature photo).  I couldn't help myself and bought a rose and carob liqueur to bring home.

Finally I arrived at the last ferry where I decided to celebrate with an ice cream while waiting for it to board. As if I didn't eat & drink enough already today!  

I look forward to seeing what Korcula has to offer tomorrow.

Seascapes & Sunsets

A big day today which started with a bus ride to Vidova Gora, Brac’s highest peak. I’ve been told that to hike the peak it would take around 2 hours one way but as the tour is on a time limit we took the bus and walked the remaining few hundred feet to the top.  The view of Brac and the Adriatic coastline was pretty special. Apparently on a really clear day you can see all the way to Italy!

From there we moved on to the village of Skrip, the islands oldest settlement and home to an olive oil museum. I explored the gorgeous village, bought some olive oil soap and saw how olive oil used to be made before sitting down to a lunch of prosciutto, cheese, bread, tapenade and red wine. Delicious!     

View from Vidova Dora

Olive oil museum in Skrip

Village of Skrip

The tour guide?

This afternoon was all to myself so I raced down to Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape) for a swim in the Adriatic. It was a bit cooler than expected as the warmer shoreline quickly dips to deeper, cooler water. But it was so refreshing! I stupidly didn't take a towel from the hotel, assuming I would have to hire a towel and sun-bed at the beach but I couldn't find anything when I got there. Nevermind, I just sat my butt straight down on the pebbles for a bake and dry-off after my swim.

Later on I walked up to the old Bol church (dating back to the 9-10 century) and Dominican Monastery before heading back to Golden Cape for the sunset. The walk is all along the esplanade and I could hardly take my eyes of the water and all kinds of fish you can see so clearly.     

Golden Cape beach

The old church and Dominican monastery 

The bura winds really picked up after sundown making for a chilly walk to dinner. Luckily the waiter gave us a complimentary 'body-warmer' to make our walk back to the hotel a little more cheerful.  It must have kicked in as I'm really ready to nod off now! 

Brac

Dovidenja Split! I left Split via ferry this morning but had time to stroll through the market and take some more photos as the rain had stopped. I bought some Croatian lace which a good source (hello Drazen) told me was a typical souvenir.  

The market stall where I bought the lace against a wall of Diocletian's Palace

Looking back on Split from the ferry

Brac (pronounced Brach) is the largest island of the central Dalmatian group of islands and the third largest of the Adriatic islands. Brac is well known for it's limestone and even has its own stonemason school. The old Romans used it to build cities, amphitheatres, palaces, etc. - think Diocletian's Palace from yesterday. Brac also produces wine and olive oil.

Croatia has has over 1200 islands and yet again comes to the 'picture perfect' party. No wonder Aussies are flocking here. I promised myself that I wouldn't take any photos from the bus window (they always turn out blurry or reflective) but I couldn't help myself as we slowly wove around the island. Sampling a 1/2 litre bottle of Croatian beer with lunch may have helped with the breaking of that rule. 

Hello Karlovacko beer!

Island of Brac

Brac

Most of the day was spent getting a tour of the island but I managed to take a late walk down to the beach (pebbles not sand) and catch the sunset.  The water here is so temperate even the fussiest of swimmers wouldn't be able to resist! Hopefully I'll get time for a swim tomorrow.  By the way, did you notice how translucent the water is?  Note the feature photo taken from a cliff looking down to the water - you can see every rock and pebble!

Sunset on the beach

Brac sunset

Note to European travellers: The one thing I have been frustrated with on this trip is the lack of irons in the hotels. Even when asking at the front desk you will not be supplied with one as the hotels provide laundry and ironing at a cost. From memory, this is quite normal for hotels in Europe but if you hate looking crushed like I do and you don't have the time or money to use the laundry service then my tip is to buy a travel iron. I know I will be if I'm ever lucky enough to come back again.